Buy the racket, not the advert.

Five checks before you discuss price

1. Confirm the exact model. Match the generation, head size, weight version and grip size. A Blade 98 v8 is not the same comparison as a Blade 98 v9 or v10.
2. Look for structural damage. Cracks, crushed graphite, a distorted hoop or an unexplained repair matter more than paint chips.
3. Inspect the bumper and grommets. Heavy wear can expose the frame underneath and may add replacement cost.
4. Ask about customisation. Added lead, silicone, replacement pallets or grip-size changes can make two apparently identical frames play differently.
5. Price the work. Add strings, grip, grommets, delivery and any technician work before calling it a bargain.

If the seller cannot provide clear photographs of the hoop, bumper and throat, treat the racket as ungraded rather than guessing.

See the photo checklist and red flags →

Grade condition before you value it

The grade is a buyer’s shorthand, not proof that a frame is genuine or structurally sound. Use it only after you have identified the exact model.

1. A — Almost new. Light cosmetic marks only. Bumper intact, no exposed graphite, cracks, soft spots or repairs. Strings and grip can still need replacing without changing the grade.
2. B — Normal club use. Scratches and paint chips are expected. Bumper may be worn, but the frame underneath is not exposed or damaged. Budget for normal consumables.
3. C — Heavy wear or uncertain history. Significant bumper wear, exposed areas or unclear repair history need closer inspection. Do not value it like a B until structural damage has been ruled out.
4. D — Structural damage. Cracks, crushed fibres, a bent hoop, soft spots or a suspect repair are reasons to walk away. Do not try to solve structural damage with a restring.

Use like with like: compare A with A, the same generation with the same generation, and single frames with single frames. A cheap C-grade racket is not automatically better value than a clean A-grade example.

Work out the real used cost

Asking prices show what sellers hope to receive. Completed sales are better evidence, but only when the listing is genuinely comparable.

1. Find several completed sales for the exact generation and version.
2. Record condition, grip size, delivery and whether strings or accessories were included.
3. Ignore hidden “best offer” amounts unless the actual accepted price is known.
4. Add the work your racket needs: restring, grip, bumper or grommets, and delivery.
5. Compare that ready-to-play used cost with a current new price for the same frame.

If you only have one weak comparable, say the value is uncertain. A precise-looking number built from poor evidence is worse than a sensible range.

Compare current UK new-racket prices →

Ask these before arranging collection

• How long have you owned it, and roughly how often has it been played?
• Has the frame ever cracked, been repaired or been professionally customised?
• Has weight been added under the bumper, grip or butt cap?
• Is the grip size still the original size?
• When was it last restrung, and with what string and tension?
• Can you send close photographs of the bumper, throat and both sides of the hoop?

Use the racket catalogue to identify the exact generation →

Try it if you can

A sound used racket can still be wrong for you. If a local seller will let you hit with it, use the same basic checks you would in a shop demo: rally depth, returns, second serves and how the frame feels once you are tired.

Use the 30-minute racket demo →