Check the frame’s condition, confirm the exact model and compare recent sold prices. Budget for any strings, grip or bumper work before deciding whether it offers good value.
Use photos for an initial assessment, then inspect the racket in person where possible. Ask for clear photos of the actual racket’s bumper, throat and both sides of the head. The grades are a buyer’s checklist, not proof that a frame is sound.
A — Almost new. Light cosmetic marks only. Bumper intact with no exposed graphite. No cracks, soft spots or repairs. Original or well-fitted grommets. Grip and strings may still need replacing for your game — that’s normal, and on its own doesn’t make it a B.
B — Regular use. Scratches and paint chips common. Bumper worn but graphite not showing. Frame feels solid around hoop and throat. No structural repairs claimed. Expect to budget for strings, grip and possibly a bumper/grommet refresh.
C — Heavy wear or uncertain history. Heavy cosmetic wear, a worn bumper or an unclear history needs closer inspection. If the bumper has worn through, ask a racket technician to check the frame beneath it. Don’t buy until any possible structural damage has been ruled out.
D — Structural damage. Cracks, crushed graphite, soft spots or a bent hoop are reasons to stop the purchase. Don’t play with it or try to rescue it with a restring. A rattle alone can have several causes; get it checked before deciding what is damaged.
How to use it with sold prices: only compare A-rated sales to other A (or near-A) listings for the same generation, head size and grip. A cheap C is not a bargain against an A sold price. If the photos aren’t good enough to grade it, write “ungraded” and treat value as uncertain.
Compare prices
Work out a fair price
Start with several recent completed sales for the exact generation, head size and grip size. Separate single frames from pairs, damaged items and customised rackets. An asking price is what the seller hopes for, not what anyone paid.
Record the sale date, your A–D condition grade, delivery cost and included accessories.
If a best offer was accepted and the amount is hidden, don’t assume it sold at the asking price.
Allow for string, grip or bumper work, then compare the total with what the same racket costs new today.
If there aren’t enough comparable sales, you can’t estimate a reliable value from them. Keep the uncertainty in mind before making an offer.
We don’t publish used values on this page. Use the marketplace’s sold filter and read each listing properly.
Correction history
15 September 2026: removed the earlier 45–65% of new-price rule. It was a rough guess without real sold prices behind it, so please don’t use it to value a racket.
15 September 2026: added A–D condition-rating framework for buyer use; no stock or staged photos.
Inspect the racket
Look around the head and throat for cracks, distortion and damage. Don’t press hard to test the frame.
Inspect the bumper at 10 and 2 o’clock for exposed graphite.
Confirm exact model, weight and grip from the printed specification.
Ask about professional customisation or repairs.
Give it an A–D grade before you start haggling.
Add the cost of strings, grip and grommets before comparing prices.
Questions for the seller
How long have you owned it and how often was it played?
Has it cracked or been repaired? Has a technician added weight to match it to another racket?
When was it last restrung and with what string?
Can you provide close photos of the bumper, throat and both sides?
Has weight been added, or has the original grip size been changed?